Who it suits
Food lovers and old-town walkers who want a break from crowded beaches. Chanthaburi has a riverside old town you can wander all day, long-running restaurants, cafes in wooden houses and a large Catholic cathedral you rarely see in a Thai provincial town. It suits couples, friends and families who do not want to drive, since the main area is small enough to walk.
If swimming in clear water is the main goal, Samet fits better. Chanthaburi has a coast at Laem Sing and Chao Lao, but its real pull is the town and the food.
When to go
November to February is the most comfortable, cool enough to walk all day. May to June is fruit season, with plenty of durian, mangosteen and rambutan at good farm prices, though the rain has started by then. July to October is very wet, as this is one of Thailand’s rainier provinces. Waterfalls look great, but outdoor plans may have to change.
Getting there without a car
Buses from Ekkamai and Mo Chit run several times a day and are the simplest route. No train reaches Chanthaburi.
The length of each block is the time it takes. About 4 h in total, not counting waits.
The gem market only comes alive on certain days. Si Chan Road is busiest late in the week, especially Saturday and Sunday mornings (an estimate, so check before you go). For an expensive stone, ask for a certificate and buy from a shop you can verify.
You can walk almost everywhere in town. For Phlio waterfall or Laem Sing, around 15–30 km out, hire a songthaew or taxi for half a day, or rent a motorbike if you ride well. Agree the price before you get in and set a pickup time too, because rides back are hard to find.
Where to stay
- Chanthaboon riverside puts restaurants, cafes and the cathedral within walking distance, with old houses converted into stays. The best atmosphere for this trip.
- Town near the market and bus station is cheaper and handy for the bus home, but you need a ride to the old town.
- By the sea at Laem Sing or Chao Lao means waking up to the water, but you need a car or a hired driver. Better with more than 2 days.
A sample 2-day plan
Day one. Morning bus from Bangkok, in town around noon. Eat kuay teow moo liang or sen chan pad pu, check in, and spend the afternoon walking the Chanthaboon riverside, stopping at old houses and cafes. In the evening, cross the river to the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception and photograph it in the soft light.
Day two. If it falls late in the week, look around the Si Chan Road gem market in the morning, then hire a ride to Phlio waterfall for half a day. The water is clear and cold, with large schools of fish. Back in town, eat, buy local noodles or preserved fruit to take home, and catch an afternoon bus. On a Sunday, book your return first.
Rough budget for 2
About ฿3,500–5,000, covering transport, 1 night, food and half a day’s hired ride. Roughly: return bus for two ฿800–1,200, a mid-range room ฿1,000–1,800 a night, food and cafes ฿800–1,200, a half-day ride ฿600–1,000. Phlio is a national park, with a fee of about ฿40 for Thais. All figures are estimates. Rooms can cost more during fruit festivals.
Before you leave
Check Sunday return buses, since afternoon departures fill fast. Wear comfortable shoes, as the riverside walkways are narrow, and dress modestly for the cathedral. Some older shops close on weekdays or early in the day, so if there is one you really want, phone first.